How to Take HDR (High Dynamic Range) Photos
Sat, Jun 30, 2007
In the first part we covered what an HRD photo is, now we’ll go into a basic tutorial about how to create your own HDR (High Dynamic Range) photo. Please keep in mind that I’m very much an amateur - I just started experimenting myself so this is more of a “how to get started” type of guide.
The photo shoot
What you need:
- Camera (with ability to change exposure settings)
- Tripod (not required but highly recommended)
- Photomatix Pro ($99, but you can get it for $85 with Photomatix coupon code VPG15) or Photoshop CS2/CS3
Most modern digital cameras have exposure settings so you should be able to do this even with a normal digital point and shoot camera. SLR cameras usually have a bracketing feature which makes it easier to change the exposure settings automatically. If you are using a point and shoot, you’ll need to find a way to keep the camera as steady as possible when changing settings.
I’d recommend using the following settings:
- Lowest ISO setting (200)
- Aperture Priority Mode (usually a big [A] on the wheel)
- 3 exposure settings
- EV 0 for the first picture
- EV -2 for the second picture
- EV +2 for the third picture
Instructions for the Nikon D50
I personally use a Nikon D50 so these settings are achieved by rotating the top wheel to [A], pressing the “menu” button, going to camera settings (the wrench icon), making sure “CSM/Setup” menu is set to “Detailed”, then going to image settings (pencil icon), scrolling down to #12 “BKT Set” - and setting it to “AE & Flash” with “2.0 Step” setting. This puts the camera in a mode where the 3 consecutive shots will each have a different exposure setting.
Once you have the camera set and on a tripod, take the 3 pictures, each with a different exposure setting. If you have a remote, I’d recommend using that, but if you don’t (like me) then try to not move the camera each time you take the photo. See my HDR tutorial video.
High Dynamic Range Processing
After the shoot, download the photos to your computer. Photoshop CS2 comes with a “merge to HDR” feature, but the tone mapping features are a bit more complicated to get a hang of. If you are feeling brave, check out the “Creating A 32-Bit HDR File In Photoshop CS2″ section of the High Dynamic Range lesson (about halfway down the page).
If you don’t have Photoshop CS2+, and/or want an easier way to process the photo (and have $99) I’d recommend buying a copy of Photomatix Pro. Once you have the program installed you can fire it up and follow the directions. The tutorial at the start of the program (which can also be found online) is pretty good at stepping you through the process. Note: HDR Soft also has a Photoshop plugin, but I highly recommend using the standalone Photomatix Pro to generate the photo. You can download a free trial of the program to test it out but it will create watermarks on the photo until you buy a license.
I looked around at other options for processing HDR photos but didn’t really find anything I liked besides Photomatix and Photoshop CS2.
Modern HDR photography is a fairly new field so I expect this process will be made easier in the future. Please feel free to offer any suggestions, feedback, or your own experiences. Happy shooting!
Tags: HDR, high dynamic range, tutorial
I always think a visual guide works well in trying to guide people through HDR, as it can be a bit confusing at first. http://www.johninjapan.com/blog/show,creating-hdr-images.html/
My site is moving to http://www.hdrjapan.com please remove my post above.
Dude, you rock. Thank you for posting this HDR tutorial. I’ve got a Nikon D70 and can’t wait to try this.
TIP: If u don’t have remote, use the timer mode on the camera. Works well on an off a tripod (eg sitting on a bench).
Great tip, Justin. I agree, esp for night shots.
Nice tutorial; quick and to the point. I also like the panoramic HDR you have above
Nice tutorial. There seems to be a fine line between an HDR image that has a ‘wow’ factor and one that just looks too fake. I also agree that Photomatix Pro is a great piece of software, and much simpler (and I think producing better results) than the Photoshop alternative.
Hey a have a few questions for ya.
I use a Nikon D80 (still getting use to digital SLRs)
I was looking under the menu for the EV step and I only have two choices 1/3 and 1/2. How do you get 2stepp. I changed my menu settings to detailed.
Also I was wondering if you would recommend me setting the ISO even Lower than 200, I can go as low as 100(I wasn’t sure if you said 200 just as a good balance or if our cameras are different).
I was also wondering what to do about aperture settings and what you recommend or if with the 2 step setting it changes that for you.
Thank you for your time and sorry about all the n00b questions:)
I really appreciate your help and information.
@Nick: I’m not sure about the D80 since I’ve never used it, but I’ll try to answer your question anyway from my D50. Don’t change the EV step - change the BKT Set (different setting).
ISO 200 is the lowest my camera goes, but if you can set it to ISO 100, try it - it might be good especially for the underexposed (dark) shot of the series - to avoid noise. Experiment with it.
Aperture settings depend on the situation - I usually go with F 5.6. If you want to learn more, check out idigitalphoto’s guide to aperture.
Thanks for the tutorial. Nicely explains the concept.
Hey,
I have a Nikon D40X. It’s new and I am still trying to get used to it. Anybody know how I can program it? It does not have the same icon’s as the 50.
THX
Aww, I wanna try this but my E900 doesnt have exposure settings
Hi, I am also going to try this HDR so have been looking over the net for ideas and how to’s, one thing I found was this website (hope it’s ok to include)
http://www.hdrlabs.com/tutorials/index.html
Hope this helps
Russell.
Wonderful processing!
I have the Nikon D60. This does not have bracketing, so am I best off going to aperture priotiry mode (A) and taking my pictures ? And does it matter if the apateure changes (F numbers) between the shots ?
Any other advice for the d60 when taking hdr images ? I am just learning ! Andy.
Why do you state turn the dial to A but on your video you say use P
Kind regards Ivan
andy, you pretty much have to shoot on manual to get good hdr’s. im using a d90 now and it simply sucks on anything toher than manual, in fact u should shoot all ur pics on manual, you lose so much vivid detail in all other forms
@Ivan: someone corrected me about this - A is better so the depth of field doesn’t change between shots, but sometimes I have to use P just to get different exposures since sometimes the 2nd and 3rd exposure for some reason end up having the same image (not really sure why that happens). So I’d go with A, if you have issues, revert to P.
hey, i have nikon d90 camra, and have a menu auto exposure, that wich allow me to take 3 photos and then merge them automatically, can this work?